In the world of luxury horology, heritage often reigns supreme. Brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have long stood as the gold standard of prestige, craftsmanship, and collectibility. Yet, a new wave of watchmakers is emerging—brands that are redefining what it means to be a luxury watch in the 21st century. These companies are not just following in the footsteps of tradition; they are blazing new trails, embracing modernity, sustainability, innovation, and artistic freedom.
This article delves into the rising stars of the watch industry—brands that may not yet have the centuries-old legacy of their Swiss forebears but are rapidly capturing the attention of collectors, connoisseurs, and even the most established critics. These are the new icons: the emerging luxury watch brands to watch.
1. Furlan Marri: The Accessible Classic
Founded: 2021
Origin: Switzerland (by way of Milan and Geneva)
Few young brands have made as significant an impact as Furlan Marri. Launched via Kickstarter, this microbrand quickly won acclaim for its stunningly elegant chronographs inspired by mid-century Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin models. Priced below $1,000 for their initial quartz offerings and under $2,000 for mechanical models, Furlan Marri is challenging the notion that luxury requires astronomical budgets.
With a strong focus on case finishing, dial aesthetics, and storytelling, Furlan Marri represents a bridge between historical design and contemporary access. Their commitment to limited releases and design-driven production has helped them build a cult-like following in record time.
Why Watch Them: They’re redefining value and design excellence in the affordable luxury segment.
2. Ming Watches: The Modern Minimalists
Founded: 2017
Origin: Malaysia
Ming is one of the most talked-about independent watch brands in recent memory. Founded by photographer and designer Ming Thein, the brand has carved out a distinctive identity rooted in bold minimalism, advanced materials, and thoughtful design. Each release is highly limited, often selling out in minutes, with the brand emphasizing quality over quantity.
Ming watches are assembled in Switzerland with movements from Schwarz Etienne and Sellita, ensuring high-end craftsmanship. Their signature aesthetic—characterized by flared lugs, layered sapphire dials, and creative luminescence—has won multiple industry awards, including the Horological Revelation Prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Why Watch Them: Design-forward and technically proficient, Ming is a serious contender in the modern independent watch scene.
3. Baltic Watches: The Vintage Revivalists
Founded: 2017
Origin: France
Baltic is a love letter to vintage watch design. Based in France, the brand draws heavily from 1940s and 1950s aesthetics, delivering well-proportioned watches with thoughtful details and manual-wind movements. Whether it’s their HMS 002 with sector dials or the Aquascaphe dive watch, Baltic offers a timeless feel at an accessible price point.
Despite their youth, Baltic has already made waves in the auction world. A Baltic chronograph sold at a charity auction conducted by Phillips in Geneva for over CHF 12,000—proof of growing collector interest. Their watches balance affordability, authenticity, and sophistication in a way that feels refreshingly grounded.
Why Watch Them: For enthusiasts who crave vintage charm without the complications of restoration and inflated vintage prices.
4. H. Moser & Cie: The Provocative Traditionalists
Founded: 1828 (revived in early 2000s)
Origin: Switzerland
While not exactly new, H. Moser & Cie has undergone a radical reinvention over the past decade. With a bold, often cheeky marketing approach and highly innovative horology (think: the Swiss Alp Watch or the Vantablack-dialled Endeavour), Moser has distinguished itself as a maverick in a conservative industry.
Behind the playful veneer lies serious watchmaking: in-house movements, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and highly finished cases and dials. Moser is appealing to a younger, more rebellious collector who appreciates irony and innovation in equal measure.
Why Watch Them: They’re pushing the boundaries of what a classic watchmaker can be in the modern era.
5. Studio Underd0g: The Playful Disruptor
Founded: 2020
Origin: United Kingdom
A relative newcomer, Studio Underd0g exemplifies the modern indie watch brand: playful, irreverent, and deeply community-driven. Their breakout success came with the “Watermel0n” chronograph—a hand-wound Seagull-powered watch with a pastel dial that became a sensation on social media.
Beyond the novelty, Studio Underd0g delivers impressive specs and finishing at a very reasonable price point. Each release is limited, ensuring exclusivity and fostering a strong collector culture. Founder Richard Benc is transparent, engaging, and actively collaborates with customers, making the brand feel personal and exciting.
Why Watch Them: A bold new take on fun in horology, without sacrificing quality or craft.
6. Akrivia / Rexhep Rexhepi: The Artisan’s Artisan
Founded: 2012
Origin: Switzerland (Kosovar founder)
For those deeply embedded in haute horlogerie, Rexhep Rexhepi is already a legend. His brand Akrivia focuses on handcrafted, extremely limited watches that blend classical complications with contemporary design. Rexhepi was trained at Patek Philippe and is considered one of the finest living watchmakers.
Akrivia watches are technically complex, with minute repeaters, chronometers, and tourbillons all produced in-house. But what truly sets them apart is the hand-finishing—every bevel, anglage, and bridge is touched by human hands to perfection. In 2024, Rexhepi’s Chronomètre Contemporain II won the GPHG “Men’s Watch” prize.
Why Watch Them: This is the pinnacle of artisanal horology and perhaps the next Philippe Dufour.
7. Kurono Tokyo: The Japanese Romantic
Founded: 2019
Origin: Japan
Kurono Tokyo is the more accessible brand from Hajime Asaoka, one of Japan’s most celebrated independent watchmakers. Asaoka’s haute pieces cost upwards of six figures, but Kurono aims to offer a taste of that artistry at prices starting around $2,000–$3,000.
The design language of Kurono is distinctly Japanese—elegant, balanced, and often inspired by Art Deco and traditional craft. Each release is limited and highly collectible, often appreciating in value on the secondary market. Fans appreciate the brand’s cultural integrity and its quiet refinement.
Why Watch Them: Kurono Tokyo makes collecting indie Japanese horology both accessible and meaningful.
8. Czapek & Cie: The Resurrected Legend
Founded: 1845 (revived 2012)
Origin: Switzerland
A historical name reborn, Czapek & Cie was originally co-founded by Franciszek Czapek, who later partnered with Antoni Patek (of Patek Philippe fame). After lying dormant for over a century, the brand was revived in the 2010s and has since produced some of the most acclaimed modern watches on the market.
The Antarctique collection, introduced in 2020, has become a cult favorite among integrated bracelet sports watches, rivaling offerings from Audemars Piguet and Vacheron. With in-house movements and elegant guilloché dials, Czapek straddles the line between heritage and modernity beautifully.
Why Watch Them: A historic revival done right, with serious watchmaking credentials.
9. Serica: The Tool Watch Purists
Founded: 2019
Origin: France
Serica is the passion project of French watch journalist Jérôme Burgert. The brand channels mid-century military and exploration timepieces, offering rugged field and dive watches with robust mechanical movements and vintage design cues. Their 5303 diver and 8315 field watch stand out for their unique dial layouts and practical specs.
Assembled in Switzerland with COSC-certified calibers, Serica manages to blend utilitarianism with Parisian style. Their focus on function over frills is attracting a new generation of purists looking for no-nonsense horology.
Why Watch Them: For lovers of rugged elegance and historically inspired tool watches.
10. Massena LAB: The Curatorial Visionaries
Founded: 2018
Origin: USA
Founded by industry veteran William Massena, Massena LAB collaborates with both established and emerging watchmakers to create limited-edition timepieces that emphasize rarity, craft, and storytelling. Collaborations with Habring², Unimatic, and independent artisans have made Massena LAB a tastemaker in the niche luxury space.
Their projects blend technical innovation with thoughtful design—watches that feel as much like collectible art as functional instruments. With a strong network and deep horological knowledge, Massena LAB serves as both brand and curator.
Why Watch Them: For collectors seeking limited editions with story, pedigree, and prestige.
Conclusion: A New Era of Horology
The landscape of luxury watchmaking is no longer the exclusive domain of century-old institutions. Today’s collectors are increasingly drawn to the fresh perspectives, daring designs, and human stories behind independent and emerging brands. These watchmakers are not constrained by tradition; instead, they’re rewriting the rules.
Whether it’s the minimalist artistry of Ming, the playful irreverence of Studio Underd0g, or the haute excellence of Rexhep Rexhepi, the new icons of horology reflect the diverse and evolving tastes of modern collectors. They speak to a future where luxury is defined not just by heritage or price, but by innovation, integrity, and inspiration.
So, if you’re looking to invest in the future of horology, keep your eyes not only on the established giants—but also on the rising stars. These are the brands shaping the next chapter of timekeeping history.